OF "BEARS OF THE LAST FRONTIER,"
A GRAND ADVENTURE ACROSS ALASKA.
I'M A BEAR ECOLOGIST,
AND WITH FILMMAKER JOE PONTECORVO,
I'VE SET OUT ON A QUEST TO UNDERSTAND ALASKA'S BEARS.
THAT'S ESPECIALLY HARD TO DO WHERE WE'RE GOING NEXT --
HIGH INSIDE THE ARCTIC CIRCLE,
TO THE NORTHERNMOST POINT IN THE UNITED STATES.
THE BEAR HAS COME RIGHT DOWN THIS TRAIL HERE.
THEY'RE TESTING THE ICE CONDITIONS TO SEE
IF IT'S FIRM ENOUGH, AND IT'S NOT YET.
HERE, BEAR.
SHE'S GOT HER NOSE IN THE AIR AND SHE CAN CATCH MY SCENT.
SHE'S MOVING OVER HERE WITH SOME DETERMINATION.
I THINK IT'S TIME TO GET IN THE BOAT.
UNBELIEVABLE! MY HEART IS JUST POUNDING FROM THE EXPERIENCE.
THESE ARE THE BEARS OF THE LAST FRONTIER.
SO PUT ON A PARKA AND FOLLOW US TO THE ARCTIC,
THE FINAL FRONTIER OF OUR JOURNEY.
"NATURE" IS MADE POSSIBLE IN PART BY... SO PUT ON A PARKA AND FOLLOW US TO THE ARCTIC,
IS MADE POSSIBLE BY ALASKA WILDERNESS LEAGUE.
THE WILDERNESS OF ALASKA
IS SOMETHING YOU CAN EXPERIENCE FOR YOURSELF.
LEAVE IT UNTOUCHED INSPBY YOUR PRESENCE.RE..
CAPTURE ITS IMAGE AND PRESERVE IT FOREVER.
CANON -- LIVING AND WORKING TOGETHER
TO APPRECIATE TODAY AND CARE FOR TOMORROW.
THE CORPORATION FOR PUBLIC BROADCASTING.
AND BY CONTRIBUTIONS TO YOUR PBS STATION
FROM VIEWERS LIKE YOU.
Morgan: IN EVERY CULTURE THEY'VE ENCOUNTERED,
BEARS HAVE LEFT AN INDELIBLE IMPRESSION ON US.
SYMBOLS OF WISDOM, STRENGTH, AND CUNNING.
YET DESPITE THEIR POWERFUL PRESENCE,
SIX OF THE EIGHT BEAR SPECIES ARE THREATENED WITH EXTINCTION.
ALASKA IS ONE OF THE BEAR'S LAST STRONGHOLDS.
ALL THREE SPECIES OF NORTH AMERICAN BEARS
ARE FOUND HERE --
BROWN BEARS...
BLACK BEARS...
AND POLAR BEARS.
MY NAME IS CHRIS MORGAN.
I'VE DEDICATED HALF MY LIFE
TO THE STUDY AND CONSERVATION OF BEARS.
NOW, I'VE EMBARKED UPON A 3,000-MILE JOURNEY
INTO THE HEART OF THE BEAR'S WORLD.
WITH ME, MY GOOD FRIEND AND FILMMAKER, JOE PONTECORVO.
YOU DON'T NOTICE IT'S COLD,
UNTIL YOU LOOK AT YOUR EQUIPMENT
AND THEN YOU SEE FROST OVER EVERYTHING.
TOGETHER, OUR GOAL IS TO PEEL BACK
THE LAYERS OF MYTH AND MISUNDERSTANDING
ON THIS COMPLEX CREATURE...
YOU SEE HER GLANCE?
THAT PUT US IN OUR PLACE, DIDN'T IT?
...TO BETTER UNDERSTAND THEIR PERSONALITIES.
ALL OUR THEORIES, OUT THE WINDOW!
TO WITNESS FIRSTHAND HOW THEY LIVE TODAY...
AND WHAT THE FUTURE MIGHT HOLD
FOR THE BEARS OF THE LAST FRONTIER.
MY JOURNEY HAS TAKEN ME THROUGH THE SEASON OF THE BROWN BEAR
AND BLACK BEAR.
FROM AN AREA NEARLY UNTOUCHED BY MAN...
TO THE MOST URBAN ENVIRONMENT IN ALASKA.
NOW, AT THE VERY EDGE OF THE NORTH AMERICAN CONTINENT,
A NEW ADVENTURE IS ABOUT TO UNFOLD.
I LEAVE BEHIND THE COLD METAL AND STEEL OF PRUDHOE BAY...
AND HEAD TO THE HOME OF THE POLAR BEAR.
MY PLANE TOUCHES DOWN
ON A 4-MILE-LONG, WINDSWEPT STRIP OF LAND,
KNOWN AS BARTER ISLAND,
ON THE EDGE OF THE BEAUFORT SEA.
FEWER THAN 300 RESIDENTS, MOSTLY INUPIAT ESKIMO,
CALL THIS REMOTE ISLAND HOME.
BUT THEY ARE NOT ALONE.
THEY SHARE THIS FRIGID COASTLINE WITH
ANOTHER GREAT HUNTER --
THE POLAR BEAR.
WHILE THE REST OF THE BEARS HAVE DENNED UP FOR WINTER,
POLAR BEARS SENSE THE CHANGE IN SEASON
AND ARE ANXIOUS FOR THE CHILL TO SET IN.
POLAR BEARS ARE ICE-LOVING CREATURES.
AND FROM AN EARLY AGE THEY ARE DRAWN TO IT,
INVESTIGATING ANY NEW FORMATIONS ON THE WATER.
WHAT'S FASCINATING TO ME ABOUT THESE POLAR BEARS
IS THAT THEY'RE SO FINELY TUNED AND ADAPTED TO LIFE ON ICE.
THIS LOOKS LIKE A BEAR HAS COME RIGHT DOWN THIS TRAIL HERE
AND HE'S BROKEN THROUGH HERE.
LOOK, HIS PAW'S ACTUALLY BROKEN THROUGH THIS ICE HERE.
IN FACT, THE ICE IS STARTING TO FORM ALREADY.
SO THEY'RE FOREVER TESTING THE ICE CONDITIONS
TO SEE IF IT'S FIRM ENOUGH FOR THEM TO HEAD OUT ONTO.
AND IT'S NOT YET, OBVIOUSLY.
AS ADULTS, THEY DEPEND UPON ICE TO HUNT.
UNLIKE BROWN BEARS,
POLAR BEARS ARE HIGHLY SPECIALIZED CARNIVORES
AND HUNT, ALMOST EXCLUSIVELY, ONE ANIMAL --
SEALS.
THE RINGED SEAL LOOKS NERVOUSLY AROUND,
EXPOSED ON THIS OPEN EXPANSE.
BUT WITHOUT FIRM ENOUGH ICE,
THIS BEAR HAS LITTLE CHANCE TO HUNT DOWN THE SEAL.
IT'S LATE OCTOBER, AND BY NOW
THE OCEAN SHOULD BE FROZEN OVER.
BUT THIS YEAR, WINTER HAS COME LATE.
PARTS OF THE LAGOON ARE COVERED WITH ICE,
BUT THE OCEAN IS YET TO BE TAMED.
FOR NOW, THE BEARS ARE TRAPPED ON LAND,
UNABLE TO HUNT.
LOCALS CALL THIS AREA THE POLAR BEAR CAMPGROUND.
IT'S A NURSERY, OF SORTS,
A SAFE HAVEN FOR MOTHERS AND YOUNG.
THIS TIME OF YEAR, WHEN OTHER POLAR BEARS
ARE WAITING FOR SEA ICE TO FORM,
PREGNANT FEMALES ARE WAITING FOR ENOUGH SNOW
TO DIG THEIR MATERNITY DENS.
THIS WHOLE AREA, IN FACT,
IS REALLY IMPORTANT FOR DENNING FEMALES.
WHEN THEY'RE PREGNANT, THEY COME AND GIVE BIRTH
IN THE HABITAT ALONG THIS COAST HERE,
NEAR THE ARCTIC NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE.
SO MANY OF THE FEMALES RETURN TO THIS SAME AREA
TO RAISE THEIR CUBS.
THEY SEEM TO HAVE THIS RECOGNITION,
WHERE THE CUBS ARE PLAYING, THE FEMALES ARE PLAYING,
AND ONE CUB IS PLAYING WITH ANOTHER CUB FROM --
IT'S QUITE THE INTERESTING SCENARIO THAT'S GOING ON.
Pontecorvo: THIS GUY'S MAKING A BEELINE RIGHT FOR US, ACTUALLY.
Morgan: WE'VE ONLY BEEN HERE A FEW MINUTES
AND ALREADY WE'VE ATTRACTED SOME ATTENTION.
I'M DIRECTLY UPWIND FROM HER AND SHE'S GOT HER NOSE IN THE AIR
AND SHE CAN CATCH MY SCENT.
SHE'S COMING THIS WAY.
WE PROBABLY WON'T HAVE VERY LONG
BEFORE WE HAVE TO MAKE A HASTY RETREAT.
YOU KNOW, THEY'RE THE MOST PREDATORY OF THE BEARS.
THEY'RE AS CAPABLE OF GREAT SPEED AS GRIZZLY BEARS ARE.
THEY CAN RUN 35 MILES AN HOUR, SO...
THINK IT'S TIME TO GET IN THE BOAT.
YEAH, SHE'S MOVING OVER HERE WITH SOME DETERMINATION.
WE NEED TO MAKE A RETREAT HERE. YOU WANT TO JUMP ON, JOE?
YEAH, IT LOOKS LIKE IT'S GETTING HER REALLY AGITATED.
SHE CAN SMELL US BUT SHE CAN'T ACCESS US.
SHE CAN'T FIGURE OUT IF WE'RE A MEAL OR NOT.
AND IT'S HOW THEY LIVE THEIR LIVES.
THEY ARE CURIOUS PREDATORS.
EVERYTHING ABOUT THEM IS ABOUT SURVIVING THE COLD
AND HUNTING SEALS.
BEING A SPECIALIST IS THE KEY TO SURVIVING THE ARCTIC.
IT'S AS TRUE FOR THE BEARS
AS IT IS FOR THE INUPIAT ESKIMOS.
FOR CENTURIES, THESE TWO HUNTERS OF THE ARCTIC
HAVE MADE THEIR LIVING FROM THE OCEAN,
THEIR LIVES CONNECTED BY THE ANIMALS THEY HUNT.
TWICE A YEAR, IN SPRING AND FALL,
THE INUPIAT ESKIMOS HUNT BOWHEAD WHALES.
THE DISCARDED REMAINS ARE LEFT ON THIS BONE PILE.
7:00 IN THE MORNING.
WE'RE OUT IN THE OUTSKIRTS OF TOWN.
AND THERE'S A GOOD SPOT TO WAIT FOR BEARS RIGHT HERE,
BECAUSE THE BEARS SEEM TO LIKE COMING OUT
UNDER THE COVER OF DARKNESS, BUT SOMETIMES IT'S A CASE
OF WAITING AROUND A LONG TIME FOR THEM.
SO, THAT'S WHAT WE'RE DOING RIGHT NOW.
WE'LL SEE IF ANY SHOW UP. FINGERS CROSSED.
THIS GUY IS AS CLOSE AS WE WANT TO GET.
THE WHALE MEAT, WITH ITS HIGH FAT CONTENT,
MAY HELP SOME BEARS GET THROUGH THESE TOUGH TIMES,
WHEN THERE'S LITTLE ELSE TO EAT.
IF WARMING TRENDS CONTINUE,
COMPETITION FOR THIS SMALL PILE OF FOOD
COULD GET FIERCE.
FOR A SPECIES ALREADY ON THE BRINK,
POLAR BEARS WILL HAVE SOME TOUGH TIMES AHEAD.
AN OVERNIGHT SNOW FLURRY LEAVES FRESH DRIFTS
FOR THIS YOUNG ARCTIC FOX TO PLAY IN.
THE ICY LAGOON IS FULL OF ACTIVITY.
THE BEARS USE THIS NEW PLATFORM TO PRACTICE
THEIR LIGHT-AS-A-FEATHER WALK.
SEA ICE, UNLIKE FRESH WATER ICE, IS FLEXIBLE,
WHICH GIVES THE BEAR A LOT TO EXPERIMENT WITH.
THE FIBROUS BALEEN THAT WHALES USE TO FILTER THEIR FOOD
HAS BECOME THE PERFECT TOY FOR THESE YOUNG CUBS.
PLAY ATTRACTS ATTENTION.
AND QUICKLY THEIR MUM CLAIMS THE LARGE BALEEN
TO STRIP OUT WHAT SHE CAN FROM IT.
WITH THE BONE PILE NEARLY EXHAUSTED,
THIS MOTHER FRANTICALLY DIGS FOR SCRAPS BURIED IN THE SNOW.
BUT HER FIND SOON DRAWS ATTENTION FROM ANOTHER FAMILY.
[ BEARS SNARLING ]
TENSIONS ARE HIGH
AS BEARS UNCOVER EVERY LAST BIT OF WHALEBONE,
SCRAPING WHAT MEAT THEY CAN FROM THE BONES.
A FIND LIKE THIS IS WORTH PROTECTING.
AND THIS MOTHER BEAR
IS NOT ABOUT TO GIVE UP HER MEAL SO EASILY.
[ BEARS SNARLING ]
THIS YOUNG BEAR WILL HAVE TO SEEK OUT HIS OWN MEAL.
FORTUNATELY FOR HIM, THE WEATHER APPEARS TO BE GETTING WORSE.
TEMPERATURES HAVE DIPPED TO A BONE-CHILLING 20° BELOW.
GREASE ICE IS STARTING TO COVER THE WATER.
AND WINDS BATTER THE TINY ISLAND.
THE TOWN IS BATTENING DOWN THE HATCHES
AS THE STORM SETS IN.
ONCE ICE BEGINS TO FORM,
THE OCEAN FREEZES OVER IN JUST A FEW DAYS.
WINTER HAS FINALLY TAKEN HOLD.
THE TOWN, NOW IN ITS FINAL DAYS OF SUNLIGHT,
BIDS FAREWELL TO THE BEARS
AS THEY HEAD OUT ONTO THE PACK ICE TO HUNT.
THE SUN WILL VANISH BELOW THE HORIZON
AND NOT REAPPEAR FOR ANOTHER TWO MONTHS.
FOR NOW, THE WORLD IS IN DARKNESS.
MILES OUT ON THE PACK ICE, POLAR BEARS ARE HUNTING SEALS.
STALKING THEIR PREY
IN THE INKY BLACKNESS OF WINTER.
NEAR THE END OF JANUARY, THE SUN BEGINS TO REAPPEAR.
IT'S A TIME OF TRANSITION,
WITH MORE LIGHT EACH DAY.
AND BY MAY, IN MID-SPRING, THE SUN IS UP 24 HOURS A DAY.
AND IT'S SAFE ENOUGH FOR US TO VENTURE OUT ONTO THE PACK ICE.
WE'RE NEARLY EIGHT MILES OUT ON A THIN SHELF OF ICE,
SEARCHING FOR POLAR BEARS.
BUT I'D BE FOOLISH TO ATTEMPT THIS ALONE.
[ CHUCKLES ]
Morgan: DALE BROWER GREW UP ON THE NORTH SLOPE.
MAYBE WE'LL GET ON A HIGH POINT AND LOOK AROUND.
MEANING HE GREW UP IN A WORLD COMPLETELY ALIEN TO MOST OF US.
THESE ARE REALLY FRESH 'CAUSE THEY'RE ACTUALLY
ON TOP OF OUR SLED TRACKS, FROM ABOUT FIVE HOURS AGO.
MAYBE EVEN FOUR HOURS AGO,
SO THEY WEREN'T HERE THEN, THAT'S FOR SURE.
Brower: HE MIGHT HAVE HEARD THE SNOW MACHINES
AND THEN KIND OF SNUCK BACK OFF INTO THESE PRESSURE RIDGES HERE,
AND HE COULD JUST BE HIDING OUT IN THIS STUFF.
Morgan: IN THIS FEATURELESS, WHITE LANDSCAPE,
IT'S THE BEARS THAT HAVE THE ADVANTAGE.
PROBLEM IS, IF THEY'RE OFF IN THE DISTANCE
OR BEHIND THE ICE, THEY GET EASILY OBSCURED.
EVEN A LARGE ANIMAL LIKE A POLAR BEAR.
IS THIS A WEATHER FRONT COMING IN HERE?
Brower: YEAH, THAT'S ACTUALLY THE WATER SKY.
THAT'S THE WATER FROM THE OPEN LEAD
REFLECTING INTO THE SKY.
Morgan: SO IF YOU HEADED TOWARD THOSE CLOUDS,
YOU'D FIND OPEN WATER UNDERNEATH?
Brower: OPEN WATER, YEAH.
Morgan: AND THERE'S A GOOD CHANCE
THAT'S WHERE THE POLAR BEAR IS THAT WE'RE TRACKING HERE.
IT'S BEEN AN EXHAUSTIVE SEARCH.
AND STILL THE BEAR REMAINS ELUSIVE.
WHY WERE YOU CHECKING WHICH WAY THE WIND'S BLOWING?
JUST SO THE ENTRYWAY IS ON THE OPPOSITE END.
WE DON'T WANT IT FACING THE WIND.
RIGHT. I GUESS THAT'S REALLY IMPORTANT
WHEN IT BLOWS AT 40 TO 50 MILES AN HOUR.
I CAN ALREADY SMELL THE TEA BREWING.
Morgan: OUR CAMP IS MODEST BUT FUNCTIONAL IN EVERY WAY.
I'M DISCOVERING THERE'S LITTLE THAT DALE DOES
THAT DOESN'T RELATE DIRECTLY TO OUR OWN SURVIVAL.
EVEN THE CARIBOU HIDES
SEEM TO BE THE PERFECT INSULATI AGAINST THE COLD.
SEE HOW IT KIND OF FITS IN A LITTLE BETTER,
LIKE A JIGSAW PUZZLE?
AH! HAWAII!
Morgan: WHAT IS THAT?
THAT'S MY POLAR BEAR WRAP HERE.
Morgan: IT'S THE BEST FUR WRAP THERE IS
IF IT'S FOR KEEPING THE WIND OUT.
OH, YEAH. IT KEEPS THE WIND OUT.
AND THEN IT DOESN'T FROST.
SO IT DOESN'T COLLECT SNOW AND STUFF.
INTERESTING.
AND THEN IT STAYS PRETTY CLEAN.
EVEN THOUGH YOU GET IT DIRTY, YOU CAN JUST WIPE IT IN THE SNOW
AND THE HAIR WILL JUST CLEAN ITSELF OFF.
BASICALLY, LIKE A POLAR BEAR AFTER IT'S DONE WITH ITS KILL,
IT WILL JUST RUB IN THE SNOW, TAKE A SNOW BATH
AND IT JUST TAKES ALL THE DIRT OFF THE FUR.
Morgan: POLAR BEARS ARE STEALTH HUNTERS.
AND JUST BECAUSE YOU DON'T SEE THEM
DOESN'T MEAN THEY'RE NOT THERE.
LET'S SEE WHAT WE CAN DO, WITHOUT BREAKING MY ANKLES.
YEAH.
PERFECT VANTAGE POINT.
WHOA! HA HA HA!
AS I WAS SAYING, THE PERFECT VANTAGE POINT
FOR LOOKING FOR POLAR BEARS.
OUR CAMP'S RIGHT HERE,
AND IT'S EASY TO FORGET THAT IT'S SMACK-BANG,
RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF POLAR BEAR HABITAT.
ALL THE WAY TO THE HORIZON, ALL I CAN SEE IS ICE.
GIANT, JAGGED PEAKS AND TROUGHS OF ICE,
AS FAR AS YOU CAN SEE.
AND IT IS A BARREN, HOSTILE LANDSCAPE.
IF YOU CAN'T READ THE ICE HERE, YOU'RE NOT GOING TO SURVIVE.
POLAR BEARS ARE MASTERS AT READING THE ICE.
PATROLLING THE EDGE OF A LEAD.
SMELLING FOR ANY TRACE OF A SEAL.
BUT SNEAKING UP ON A SEAL IN OPEN WATER IS A CHALLENGE,
EVEN FOR A POLAR BEAR.
THE BEST CHANCE FOR A MEAL
IS TO SNIFF OUT A SEAL'S BREATHING HOLE,
OR EVEN A DEN WITH SEAL PUPS.
IT'S A RARE SIGHT, BUT DALE HAS OBSERVED POLAR BEARS HUNTING.
LIKE, SAY IF THERE WAS A HOLE HERE.
THE BEAR WILL SQUISH IT LIKE THAT.
SAY, IF THE HOLE IS HERE, HE COULD SMELL IT
AND HE'LL CLOSE THE HOLE AND THEN DIG THIS SIDE OUT
WHERE THE SEAL IS AT, AND HE'LL JUST SCOOP THE SEAL OUT.
Morgan: IT'S ONE OF THE EARLIEST INSTINCTIVE BEHAVIORS
FOR POLAR BEAR CUBS.
WHILE THEIR MUM RESTS,
THESE CUBS WILL PRACTICE WHAT IT TAKES
TO BECOME THE APEX PREDATOR OF THE ARCTIC.
LEARNING TO LEAD WITH YOUR NOSE.
INVESTIGATE ANYTHING OUT OF THE ORDINARY.
LEAP ACROSS UNSTABLE CHUNKS OF ICE.
AND, OF COURSE, THE BELLY FLOP.
BUT WHEN MUM HUFFS...
THE CUBS KNOW IT'S TIME TO CONTINUE WITH THE REAL HUNT.
POLAR BEAR TRACKS HAVE LED US HERE,
A WHALING CAMP PERCHED AT THE EDGE OF A LEAD.
A BEAR WAS SPOTTED JUST A DAY AGO,
PERHAPS THE VERY ONE WE'RE LOOKING FOR.
FOR THE INUPIAT, WHALE HUNTING IS AN ANCIENT WAY OF LIFE
THAT CONTINUES NEARLY UNCHANGED TODAY.
WITH 24 HOURS OF LIGHT,
THE RHYTHM OF LIFE IS SET BY THE WHALES.
NOT THE SUN.
TRY THAT.
Morgan: WHALE HUNTING IS BY FAR THE MOST DANGEROUS PART
OF THEIR SUBSISTENCE LIFE.
THESE YOUNG PEOPLE ARE DOING IT
JUST THE WAY THAT THEIR ANCESTORS DID.
THESE GUYS ARE LIKE 20, 22 YEARS OLD.
THEY'VE EACH GOT A ROLE.
AND ITS IMPORTANCE TO THE COMMUNITY IS VITAL.
Brower: WHEN YOU BECOME A CAPTAIN
AND IT'S YOUR FIRST WHALE,
YOU GIVE THE WHOLE THING AWAY TO ALL THE WHALING CREWS.
YOU JUST LEARN OVER TIME
THAT WHAT YOU CATCH ISN'T REALLY YOURS.
AS A HUNTER, YOU'RE HERE
TO FEED THE TOWN AND THE FAMILIES.
NOT REALLY FOR YOURSELF.
Morgan: THE INUPIATS' COMMITMENT TO THIS TRADITION HAS HELPED
KEEP THIS PART OF THE COASTLINE FREE OF OIL DEVELOPMENT.
WITHOUT THEIR PROTECTION,
THIS VITAL HABITAT MAY DISAPPEAR COMPLETELY.
A WHALE OFF IN THE BACKGROUND, HER BLOWHOLE THERE.
WOW.
MAYBE OUR WAIT IS OVER.
AS THE WHALE APPROACHES, THE CAMP BECOMES DEAD SILENT.
AS THE WHALE SURFACES, THE BOAT IS LAUNCHED.
IT'S A TENSE MOMENT
AS THE MEN PADDLE TOWARDS THE MASSIVE WHALE,
SOMEWHERE JUST UNDER THE SURFACE.
HARPOONING A WHALE BY HAND IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS.
BOWHEAD WHALES CAN WEIGH 60 TONS.
ONE SWIPE OF ITS ENORMOUS TAIL FLUKE
COULD EASILY CRUSH THE TINY CRAFT.
THEY'VE GOT THIS INCREDIBLE SYSTEM HERE
WHERE THEY'RE TRYING TO GET THE WHALE OUT OF THE WATER.
THEY DUG TWO HOLES THROUGH THE ICE THAT GO RIGHT THROUGH
AND THEY'RE GOING TO FEED THE BLOCK AND TACKLE
AND THEN THEY'LL BE ABLE TO HAUL THE WHALE IN.
GO!
THIS BOWHEAD WHALE WILL FEED
SEVERAL FAMILIES THROUGHOUT THE SEASON,
AND PERHAPS THE POLAR BEARS AS WELL.
IT'S A CYCLE OF LIFE
THAT HAS REMAINED UNCHANGED FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS.
OTHER WHALES WILL CONTINUE THEIR ANNUAL MIGRATION,
FOLLOWING THE OPEN LEADS EAST TO THEIR SUMMER GROUNDS
IN THE BEAUFORT SEA.
BUT THE ICE IS TOO THIN FOR US TO GO ANY FURTHER.
IT'S LATE MAY, AND THE PACK ICE IS SLOWLY RETREATING.
STRAIGHT DOWN.
IT SUDDENLY FEELS TREACHEROUS OUT HER, DOESN'T IT?
THERE ARE NO SHORTCUTS IN THE ARCTIC.
YOU HAVE TO KNOW WHEN TO CALL IT QUITS.
AS DALE OFTEN SAYS,
IF YOU DON'T COME BACK THIS SEASON,
YOU CAN'T HUNT NEXT SEASON.
IT'S A GOOD LESSON.
EVEN FOR A POLAR BEAR.
BUT CONTINUALLY HAVING TO HAUL HIMSELF ONTO THE ICE
TAKES AN IMMENSE AMOUNT OF ENERGY.
POLAR BEARS FACE THIS CHALLENGE EVERY SPRING.
BUT THE IMPACTS OF A WARMING WORLD
HAVE MADE MATTERS WORSE.
LOSS OF PACK ICE IS ESTIMATED AT 11% PER DECADE.
THE BEARS' FRAGILE HUNTING PLATFORM IS GETTING THINNER.
AND THIS MOTHER AND CUB HAVE FOUND THEMSELVES
IN AN OCEAN OF MELTING ICE.
AND IF WARMING TRENDS CONTINUE,
SCENES LIKE THIS WILL BECOME COMMON.
LIKE MANY ANIMALS THAT HAVE MADE SUCH GREAT LEAPS
IN THEIR EVOLUTION TO SURVIVE,
THE WORLD MAY BE CHANGING TOO FAST
FOR POLAR BEARS TO KEEP UP WITH.
WHILE THE ENDLESS ARCTIC SUN SLOWLY ERODES THE ICE,
IT BRINGS RENEWED LIFE TO THE TUNDRA.
AND THE SEASON OF THE GRIZZLY HAS ONLY JUST BEGUN.
IT'S THE PERFECT TIME TO HEAD SOUTH
AND INTO THE HEART OF THE BROOKS RANGE.
IT LOOKS LIKE A PERFECT VALLEY FOR GRIZZLY BEARS, EH?
WELL, EVEN IF I DIDN'T HAVE CARIBOU ON THE MIND,
I'D PICK THIS SPOT IF I WAS A GRIZZLY.
Morgan: WE'RE FOLLOWING THE TRAILS
OF GREAT MIGRATIONS FROM SEASONS PAST.
IT'S ABSOLUTELY COVERED WITH CARIBOU TRAILS.
RIGHT UP THE MOUNTAINS, RIGHT OVER THE RIDGES,
ONE VALLEY TO THE NEXT.
AND WE'RE HOPING THESE CARIBOU TRACKS
WILL POINT THE WAY TO OUR ARCTIC GRIZZLIES.
IT MAY BE OUR BEST CHANCE AT A CLOSER LOOK
AT THIS ELUSIVE PREDATOR.
BUT FINDING NEARLY HALF A MILLION CARIBOU
IN THE VASTNESS OF THE WESTERN ARCTIC
TAKES PATIENCE AND PERSISTENCE.
WE'VE PICKED THIS SPOT BECAUSE THERE'S CARIBOU TRAILS
ALL AROUND, DOWN EITHER VALLEY, EACH SIDE OF THE TENT HERE.
NOT A SINGLE CARIBOU YET.
AND NOT A SINGLE BEAR, BUT...
HOPEFULLY, WHEN THE CARIBOU ARRIVE --
WHICH THEY COULD, IN BIG NUMBERS --
THEN THE BEARS MIGHT ARRIVE AS WELL.
THAT'S ESSENTIALLY WHAT WE'RE HOPING FOR.
WE'VE ENLISTED THE AID OF AERIAL CAMERAMAN DANIEL ZATZ
TO HELP DOCUMENT THE HERD,
AND HOPEFULLY THE BEARS -- IF WE FIND THEM.
SO BASED ON WHAT JIM FROM FISH AND GAME SAID,
HE SAID THAT THE FEMALES AND CALVES
ARE RUNNING ALONG THIS LINE HERE TO THE NORTH.
AND THIS IS ALSO WHERE HE EXPECTS WE'LL SEE THE BEARS.
BUT IT'S REALLY UNPREDICTABLE?
IT'S COMPLETELY UNPREDICTABLE.
CARIBOU -- YOU NEVER KNOW WHERE THEY'RE GOING TO GO.
Morgan: CARIBOU ARE THE ULTIMATE WANDERERS.
WITHIN A SINGLE YEAR, THE WESTERN ARCTIC HERD
WILL RANGE ACROSS A QUARTER OF ALASKA --
AN AREA THE SIZE OF MONTANA.
OH, RIGHT THERE! RIGHT THERE! A HUGE HERD OF CARIBOU!
ALL RIGHT BY THE RIVER!
DOWN UNDER THE LEFT WING. OH, LOOK AT THAT.
WOW! THAT MUST BE AT LEAST 100, MAYBE 150 THERE.
WELL, I'LL FLY, YOU COUNT.
OKAY.
OH, THAT'S A GOOD SIGN -- OUR FIRST CARIBOU.
Morgan: IT LOOKS LIKE WE'RE IN LUCK.
WE'RE JUST CAUGHT THE TAIL END OF A MASSIVE HERD.
WOW, WE HAVE JUST SETTLED DOWN IN A SPOT HERE.
SO WE'RE TRYING TO STAY VERY QUIET
AND REDUCE OUR SILHOUETTE ON THE HORIZON,
'CAUSE THEY'RE JUST SO EVER VIGILANT, YOU KNOW,
FOR WOLVES AND GRIZZLY BEARS.
THAT'S WHERE THE SAFETY IN NUMBERS COMES FROM.
IF YOU'RE EATING, YOU'RE NOT WATCHING.
IF YOU'RE WATCHING, YOU'RE NOT EATING.
SO IF YOU'RE IN A GROUP, YOU CAN DO BOTH.
SPRING IS CALVING SEASON.
AND SOME OF THESE NEWBORNS ARE JUST A FEW DAYS OLD.
CARIBOU CALVES CAN RUN WHIN HOURS OF BEING BORN.
IT'S A MATTER OF SURVIVAL.
NEWLY BORN CALVES ARE MOST VULNERABLE TO PREDATORS.
AND THEY HAVE TO STAY CLOSE TO MUM AT ALL TIMES.
WOLVES ARE NEVER FAR BEHIND.
THIS GREY WOLF IS TESTING THE HERD.
LOOKING FOR ANY SIGNS OF WEAKNESS.
HE'S JOINED BY ANOTHER FROM THE PACK.
TOGETHER, THEY'VE CUT THE HERD IN HALF.
BUT SOON THE HERD HAS REGROUPED
AND THE WOLVES GIVE UP THE CHASE.
THERE'S LITTLE REST FOR THE HERD
UNTIL THEY COMPLETE THEIR SEASONAL MIGRATION
TO THEIR SUMMER RANGE.
CARIBOU ARE LARGELY SUSTAINED BY THE HIGH-ENERGY SUGARS
FOUND IN ARCTIC LICHEN.
SO PRIZED IS THIS PLANT THAT MANY BIOLOGISTS BELIEVE
THE AVAILABILITY OF LICHEN DURING THE WINTER MONTHS
CAN PROFOUNDLY IMPACT CARIBOU NUMBERS.
WITHOUT THE CARIBOU,
THIS LANDSCAPE WOULDN'T LOOK THE WAY IT DOES.
THEY AERATE THE SOILS AS THEY'RE WALKING
TO MAKE IT MORE PRODUCTIVE FOR PLANTS.
EVEN THEIR HAIR
PROVIDES NESTING MATERIAL FOR MIGRATORY BIRDS AROUND HERE.
AND YOU CAN IMAGINE HOW MUCH FERTILIZER
HALF A MILLION CARIBOU CREATE.
THEY'RE LIKE BLOOD VESSELS
FLOWING ACROSS THIS GIANT LANDSCAPE.
WHOA! LOOK AT THAT.
A MUM WITH THREE CUBS.
THESE ARE SPRING CUBS, IN THEIR FIRST YEAR OF LIFE,
FORAGING ALONG THE HILLSIDE.
ARCTIC GRIZZLIES MUST MAKE THE MOST OF THESE SHORT SUMMERS,
AND THAT INCLUDES THIS MATING PAIR,
THAT HAVE SOMEHOW FOUND EACH OTHER IN THIS VAST EXPANSE.
GRIZZLIES MUST COVER GREAT DISTANCES
JUST TO FIND ENOUGH FOOD.
AN ARCTIC GRIZZLY IN OPEN TUNDRA
CAN HAVE A HOME RANGE THE SIZE OF YELLOWSTONE.
ONCE YOU TOUCH DOWN...
KEEPING UP WITH A GRIZZLY IS NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE.
FOR THE CARIBOU, THEIR JOURNEY IS NEARLY OVER.
THE HERD HAS FINALLY MADE IT TO THEIR SUMMER RANGE,
THE COMPLETION OF THEIR JOURNEY.
BUT CARIBOU ARE WANDERERS,
AND THEY DON'T STAY PUT FOR LONG.
WITH THE HERD MOVING ON,
AND ONLY FLEETING GLIMPSES OF GRIZZLIES,
WE ARE LEFT WITH FEW CHOICES.
AN OLD REPORT OF A SALMON RUN HAS GIVEN US SOME HOPE.
I THINK THIS IS OUR BEST BET.
IT LOOKS LIKE A GOOD SPOT, DOESN'T IT?
Morgan: BUT THIS FAR INLAND, IT'S A LONG SHOT.
EVEN IF WE FIND SALMON IN THE RIVER,
NO ONE I'VE SPOKEN WITH
HAS ACTUALLY SEEN ARCTIC GRIZZLIES FISHING.
THE CARIBOU TAUNT ME.
BUT IT'S NOT THEM I'M LOOKING FOR.
FINDING BEAR SIGN IS THE PRIORITY HERE.
BUT IF GRIZZLIES ARE AROUND, IT'S BEST TO BE PREPARED.
I CARRY A SHOTGUN ONLY AS AN EXTREME PRECAUTION.
AND THEN, BELIEVE IT OR NOT,
THE REALLY POPULAR THING WITH GRIZZLY BEARS
IS THIS HEDYSARUM ROOT -- THEY LOVE THIS STUFF.
I'M SURPRISED THIS MORSEL HAS BEEN LEFT BEHIND, ACTUALLY.
YOU MIGHT LOOK AT THIS PLACE
AND THINK IT DOESN'T OFFER VERY MUCH.
BUT THEY PIECE TOGETHER A DIET, LITTLE BIT BY LITTLE BIT.
THEY GET BY HERE.
THERE ARE TRACKS ALL THROUGH HERE.
LOOK AT THIS, FRESH GRIZZLY BEAR TRACKS.
AND THEN RIGHT IN FRONT OF IT, A CARIBOU TRACK,
SO BOTH OF THESE SPECIES ARE USING THIS RIVER TO GET
FROM "A" TO "B", AND OCCASIONALLY IF A BEAR IS LUCKY,
THEY'LL BE ABLE TO PREY ON A CARIBOU,
ESPECIALLY DURING THE CALVING SEASON.
WOW! LOOK AT THAT.
THE SALMON ARE RUNNING.
THE QUESTION IS, WHERE ARE THE BEARS?
NEARLY TIME FOR A CUP OF COFFEE, I THINK.
AFTER HOURS OF WAITING,
THERE'S A SHADOW MOVING THROUGH THE WILLOWS.
OH, YEAH, IT'S RIGHT HERE.
THERE'S A THIRD CUB COMING UP THE RIVER.
OKAY, I SEE HER.
SHE'S CROSSING HERE.
I DO NOT WANT TO SURPRISE THIS BEAR, THOUGH.
ARCTIC GRIZZLIES HAVE A MUCH MORE AGGRESSIVE REPUTATION
THAN COASTAL BROWN BEARS.
SHE SEEMS PRETTY COOL. SHE'S SEEN US.
JUST FINDING ONE WOULD BE CHANCE ENOUGH.
Pontecorvo: HOW FAR BACK IS THE THIRD ONE?
Morgan: RIGHT BEHIND THE SECD.
THE FOURTH ONE IS WAY BACK THERE IN THE WILLOWS
ON THIS SIDE OF THE CREEK.
BUT NOW WE'RE SUDDENLY SURROUNDED BY FOUR.
THE FAMILY SEEMS TO BE USING THE RIVER AS A CORRIDOR.
BUT THEIR FOOD IS BURIED IN THE TUNDRA.
HEDYSARUM ROOTS ARE AN IMPORTANT SOURCE OF PROTEIN
FOR ARCTIC GRIZZLIES.
THE BEARS' LACK OF INTEREST IN THE SALMON IS PUZZLING.
BUT THESE CHUM SALMON DON'T HAVE NEARLY THE FAT AND CALORIES
AS THOSE THE BEARS EAT ALONG THE COAST.
ONCE THEY LEAVE THE SALT WATER TO HEAD UPSTREAM,
THEY STOP EATING.
ALL THEIR ENERGY GOES INTO
REACHING THE SPAWNING GROUND WHERE THEY WERE BORN.
FOR THESE FISH, THAT'S ROUGHLY 400 RIVER MILES.
AFTER WEEKS OF SWIMMING UPSTREAM,
THEY'VE USED A TREMENDOUS AMOUNT OF THEIR RESERVES TO GET HERE,
AND THE ONCE-VIBRANT COLOR
HAS FADED FROM THEIR SKIN.
MALES WILL GATHER AND FIGHT FOR POSITION, AS FEMALES ARRIVE.
ONCE THIS COURTING PROCESS STARTS,
IT CAN TAKE HOURS, OR EVEN DAYS, TO COMPLETE.
THE FAMILY HAS RETURNED.
BUT THIS TIME THEY'VE STAKED OUT A SPOT ON THE RIVER.
MUM IS COMPLETELY FOCUSED ON FISHING.
SHE'S LANDED A HUGE CHUM SALMON.
THE WHOLE FAMILY RETREATS INTO THE WILLOWS TO SHARE THE FISH.
HERE IN THE ARCTIC, A CATCH LIKE THIS IS QUITE A BOUNTY.
MUM QUICKLY RETURNS TO THE RIVER'S EDGE.
THE CUBS WILL PICK THIS FISH CLEAN
WHILE MUM LOOKS FOR MORE.
LOOK AT THOSE CUBS.
ALL LINED UP, WAITING FOR MUM TO CATCH DINNER.
SHE'S QUICKLY PROVING TO BE A SKILLED FISHER,
AND BY THE LOOKS OF THESE CUBS, SHE'S BEEN AN EXCELLENT PROVIDER
FOR THE FIRST 2 1/2 YEARS OF THEIR LIVES.
IT'S HARD TO EVEN IMAGINE THEM AS CUBS.
THEY'RE ALMOST AS BIG AS SHE IS AT THIS STAGE.
THE CUBS HAVE BEEN WATCHING HER CLOSELY
AND NOW, INSTEAD OF FEASTING OFF WHAT SHE'S CAUGHT,
THEY SEEM TO BE INTERESTED IN LEARNING TO FISH THEMSELVES.
THESE NEW EXPERIENCES SHOW OFF HOW DIFFERENT
EACH OF THESE CUBS ARE.
THEY'RE ALL INDIVIDUALS.
THIS CUB HAS PLENTY OF CONFIDENCE.
HE'S BORDERLINE TROUBLESOME.
CLOSE ENOUGH.
THAT'S CLOSE ENOUGH.
CLOSE ENOUGH.
IT'S OKAY, IT'S ALL RIGHT. IT'S OKAY.
Morgan: HE VENTURES MUCH FURTHER THAN THE OTHER TWO
AND SEEMS TO BE QUITE BOLD.
THIS BOLDNESS CONCERNS HIS MUM QUITE A BIT.
BUT IT'S ALSO WHAT YIELDS HIM HIS FIRST CATCH.
Pontecorvo: VERY NICE.
THAT'S GREAT, THEY'RE LEARNING, THEY CAUGHT IT.
Morgan: WHEN HE CATCHES SOMETHING, IT'S HIS ALONE.
HE IS ALREADY SHOWING HIS INDEPENDENCE.
THE OTHER TWO CUBS ARE MORE PLUSH AND CUBLIKE
THAN THEIR BROTHER.
ONE IS PLAYFUL AND ANXIOUS
AS HE BOUNDS INTO THE WATER AFTER FISH.
THE OTHER CUB IS MUCH MORE CAUTIOUS,
STICKING CLOSE TO MUM.
FOR THE FIRST TIME IN THE DAYS WE'VE BEEN WATCHING HER,
SHE'S ABLE TO REST COMFORTABLY ON THE SHORE,
WHILE HER CUBS PATROL THE SHALLOW RIVER.
IT'S DOUBTFUL THEY KNOW THIS IS THEIR LAST SUMMER
UNDER HER CARE AND GUIDANCE.
AT LAST, HER SMALLEST CUB
IS BEGINNING TO FOCUS ON THE SALMON.
MUM FOLLOWS CLOSE BEHIND, STIRRING UP THE FISH.
SHE GIVES UP THE CHASE, LETTING HER CUB FINISH THE CATCH.
OH, LOOK AT THAT!
IT'S NOT UNCOMMON TO SEE A MOTHER GET VERY PROTECTIVE
AND AGGRESSIVE WHILE FISHING.
TO ME, SHE SEEMS AS INTENT
ON PREPARING THESE CUBS FOR LIFE ON THEIR OWN
AS SHE DOES WITH FINDING FOOD.
DON'T FORGET WE'RE HERE.
AFTER SEVERAL DAYS OF BEING WATCHED,
HER CURIOSITY FOR US HAS FINALLY PIQUED.
HEY, BEAR, YOU ARE A GOOD MAMA.
OH, YOU ARE SO SWEET.
LOOK AT HER BACKING UP LIKE THAT.
AND WE'RE GOING TO GET OUT OF YOUR WAY.
AND... THAT'S OUR CUE.
Morgan: WE'LL TAKE A CUE FROM THIS.
A GOOD LESSON FOR US TO KEEP IN MIND
IS TO ALWAYS LEAVE ON A GOOD NOTE.
WHILE IT MAY BE SOME TIME BEFORE THEY COME ACROSS PEOPLE AGAIN,
WHEN THEY DO, WE WANT THEIR MEMORY OF US
TO BE A POSITIVE ONE.
WITH A FEW SHORT HUFFS,
SHE ROUNDS UP HER FAMILY TO CALL IT A DAY.
WE REALLY DIDN'T KNOW WHEN WE ENTERED THIS SITUATION
IF SHE WAS GOING TO BE ACCEPTING OF US OR NOT.
AND SHE'S EMERGED TO BE
THIS WISE, MATURE, THOUGHTFUL,
CAREFUL FEMALE.
IT'S TAKEN US TIME TO GET TO KNOW THEM
AND TO UNDERSTAND THAT
SO THAT WE KNOW WHAT THEIR LIMITS ARE.
AND IT REMINDS YOU THAT ANY TWO BEARS
ARE AS DIFFERENT AS ANY TWO PEOPLE YOU MIGHT ENCOUNTER.
AND OVER THIS JOURNEY, IT'S BECOME CLEAR.
THE WORLD THESE BEARS INHABIT IS VAST,
YET IT MUST REMAIN SO TO SUSTAIN SUCH GREAT WANDERERS.
THE RESOURCES WE SO PRIZE ARE EMBEDDED
IN THE LAND THAT SUSTAINS ALL LIFE HERE.
LIKE THE GREAT PLAINS OF AFRICA,
ALASKA IS THE LAST STRONGHOLD
FOR SOME OF THE EARTH'S WILDEST CREATURES.
I'VE NEVER FELT SO COMFORTABLE OR SO ALIVE AS I DO HERE.
THIS MAY BE THE END OF MY JOURNEY,
BUT ALASKA'S WILDERNESS AND ITS WILDEST CREATURES
WILL ALWAYS CALL ME BACK.
"NATURE" IS MADE POSSIBLE IN PART BY... BUT ALASKA'S WILDERNESS AND ITS WILDEST CREATURES
IS MADE POSSIBLE BY ALASKA WILDERNESS LEAGUE.
THE WILDERNESS OF ALASKA
IS SOMETHING YOU CAN EXPERIENCE FOR YOURSELF.
LEAVE IT UNTOUCHED INSPBY YOUR PRESENCE.RE..
CAPTURE ITS IMAGE AND PRESERVE IT FOREVER.
CANON -- LIVING AND WORKING TOGETHER
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